Sam Cutler

I am in Bali - the island of the Gods. A short break before I go to America and Canada and Europe on a promotional tour for my book. I have come to Bali to re-charge my batteries - to re-connect with the ‘spiritual center’ and to get a tattoo ! Here there is a man (Leon) who is a Master artist - one whom I trust to put marks on my body that will be there until the day I die. On my chest, beside my heart, Leon will create for me a beautiful Buddha - whenever I look into a mirror the Buddha will be looking at me and will serve to remind me of the ‘refuge’ which is his sublime teaching.

On my second evening on the island I am invited to a dinner party by a charming woman with whom I became friends on Facebook ! I try to buy a bottle of wine but the wine is of poor quality and wildly over-priced, so instead I buy my host a bottle of Stolychnya Vodka. I arrive at a beautiful Balinese house and meet an eclectic and interesting group of people. It is amazing how we are all strangers and yet we all have mutual friends and acquaintances that stretch down the years and cover virtually every corner of the planet !

One of the guests is a lovely German woman, a follower of Bhagwhan Shree Rajneesh, (my Guru in the seventies!) and we have a splendid conversation about old times in Poona. The years roll away and I am transported to those sometimes manic Tantric groups in the basement of the Ashram where we laughed and cried together and connected our sexualities in ways which re-affirmed our humanity and our essential connectedness with our fellow human beings. She makes my heart sparkle and my eyes brim with happy tears this woman, like so many have done over the years.

Another guest lives in Costa Rica and is here on holiday, and invites me to go to a bar where he wants me to meet some of his friends. He loves the Grateful Dead and wants me to meet other people who carry the band’s music in their hearts. We exchange telephone numbers.  A man is telling amazing tales of tunnels beneath the earth which stretch from Antartica to Europe and which are known (he tells us) to the top brass in the Pentagon ! A stunningly attractive woman tells me emotional tales of when she and Mick were lovers so many years ago, when Jagger would come to the island and no-one would give a toss who he was. Here (for a short period of time) he was able to take his holidays and get away from the full time job which is being Mick Jagger. She speaks of her lover from long ago with the slightest hint of a tear but without rancor or malice and in a voice soft enough to delight the most reluctant lothario. Her words of love lost long ago make me feel sad and I remember those whom I too have loved who are no more.

My gracious hostess and I talk of old times. Of her friend Chris Stamp who managed The Who, a man that partly shared the journey with me and experienced the rocky trail which was the music business in the sixties. We talk of his brother who (like so many of us) made the ‘pilgrimage to Poona’ and of lives devoted to both the spiritual path and the necessity of somehow making our way through the trials and vicissitudes of the world. As the evening grows late I make my excuses and wander away and walk down the edge of the rice paddy with the frogs croaking and strange noises emanating from the darkness in an enchanting chorus. The Balinese night is heavy with clouds, the Gods are busy which is their wont, and I feel wonderfully receptive to the lush fecundity of my surroundings. Here is a locale where the soul can be serenely nurtured should it so desire.

The following evening I am at dinner with another group of people. Some of them are friends and some are new to me. A woman is at the dinner party with her young and strikingly handsome son. His father is Javanese, she is English. The children of such unions have the most beautiful features and wonderful skins. We strike up a conversation and the son tells me that he is studying Sanskrit at university in Australia. As we talk I discover to my amusement and delight that his Professor is an acquaintance from many years ago when he was a post graduate student in England. We speak of Kharoshti manuscripts that were found in Afghanistan - the oldest birch-bark manuscripts ever discovered, and how his professor is working on their decipherment.

The circularity of acquaintances never ceases to amaze - those six degrees of separation with which we are all connected. I love meeting new people, hearing their stories, and am amused and delighted that I should have had a conversation with a young man whose Professor I knew back in the eighties. The young student is stunned that an old rock and roller like me should know of his eminent professor and is reduced to silence - that he could sit at a table in a Balinese restaurant and hear a man dressed in black and covered in tattoos talk about indo-sanskritic language roots and the manuscripts recently uncovered in the caves of the Silk Road leaves him happily bemused. I must admit to a certain mischievous delight in not conforming to conventional stereo-type when it comes to those who enjoyed getting wasted through years of sex and drugs and rock and roll ! The student will never take “old rockers” for granted again ! We’re not all Ozzie Osborne !!!

I make my way to a small bar (Warang Sanje) which advertises “authentic Indonesian food” and as I walk up the steps the sound system is playing Grateful Dead music ! In Ubud in the center of Bali, they are playing the Grateful Dead ! Several ex-pats are sitting around drinking beer and soon I am immersed in conversation about arcane questions to do with The Dead’s music. Was I in Hartford Connecticut in 1974 ? (yes) was I at the first Portchester gig? (yes)” why did Jerry change the lyrics to Wharf Rat?” and so on. I am bombarded with question of encyclopedic intensity and lo and behold (sure enough) some of us had been at the same concerts long ago - concerts which I had organized ! Such happy coincidences leave us bemused and delighted and chuckling merrily at the connectedness of everything.

I wander, once again, off into the night to make my way home to bed. Most of the island is fast asleep but in the fields and rice paddies everything is as busy as a Wall Street broker’s office. Frogs are croaking orders to one another and yelling “I’m over here, you want it, come and get it!” and the sound of running water is punctuated with the distinctive plop of a frog making his move to ferociously procreate. A Balinese rice paddy at night is a veritable orgy of frog lust ! I stand beneath the clouds enjoying the silken caress of the finest Balinese mist. What a glorious ‘safety zone’ in which to find oneself. How fortunate I am to be alive ! How grateful I am to have been involved in sharing the music of the Grateful Dead ! And my mind wanders to long ago, and a small shabby house which served as the band’s office in San Rafael California. Alan Trist and I were talking about the liner-notes for a Grateful Dead album and all the fans of the Grateful Dead who called themselves Dead Heads. We wanted to let them have a place with which they could communicate with the band - this was in the days before the internet became a commonality. In a sarcastic dig at the opening lines of the Communist Manifesto (“Workers of the world unite, you have nothing to lose but your chains”) I wrote the words which were to appear on the album. “Dead Heads of the world unite! You have nothing to lose but your brains!” The rest (as they say) is history.

And here in Bali, all those disparate and seemingly unconnected strands of my life intersect and re-emerge in a wonderful synthesis of community and communication. The people of the island ensure in their daily lives that the Gods are given their due - peace and harmony are constantly re-enforced through devotion and prayer. Strangers come into their midst and the Balinese smile, and slowly but surely the secret magics of existence come to inform the lives of their guests. Life, which had hitherto somehow appeared disconnected and separate, becomes re-integrated with experience and something to be shared with one and all. I am reminded of how stunningly beautiful it all can seem for those with the soul to see and hear and the good fortune to have been blessed by the Gods.  With the ‘gift’ of Bali in my heart I am infinitely enriched by the experience of being in this place. That is why I give thanks and constantly remind myself that this world IS a beautiful hotel.

© sam cutler 2010

Each morning at five o’clock I get up and make my way to the garden. I am in Petersham, an inner-west suburb of Sydney Australia, looking after my dear friend who has a broken leg. At six the first of a thousand planes will be landing at Sydney airport and flying low over the house on their landing-approach - there is this opportunity for one blissful hour of peace and tranquility before the polluting arrows of ‘civilization’ roar once more into my life. The dog sits at my feet, the cat sits on the table beside me.

I make of my mind a temple for one hour each day and remind myself that inner peace is a pleasant and prescient antidote to the stresses and tribulations of a daily life. Stendhal said that “each day the reasonable man starts out on the search for happiness” and though I am sure this insight has its merits, it is not one that applies to me. I do not search for happiness, I do not “search” for a purpose - search seems far too active a word to describe what I am doing here.  I am not searching (as such) for anything.

Rather, I am remembering that beneath the vast panoply of the atmosphere, that comforting arch above the conundrums of this earth, we sit (mere mortals) with our trials and tribulations, our joys and sorrows, and there is precious little that is subject to our controls, other than ourselves. What are we to do, with this “thing” called me ? As my friend was fond of saying “we should get out of our own way”. That is what I do. For a blissful hour I step out of my own pre-occupations and simply become part of a suburban garden.

The plants are growing. The birds sing. There is nothing to do, for I have done more than enough already ! Simply sit. Be here now. On the lemon tree the fruit is green and I am reminded of the lemon tree in my garden in Spain - the thought arises, the memory is momentarily enjoyed, and away it goes without a care in the world. Thoughts manifest and they pass in their own inimitable way, I neither encourage them nor do I follow them with relentless attention. I allow them to frolic within my mind with paternal affection, rather like an indulgent father watches over his children playing in a park. Children know instinctively how to play, thoughts know instinctively how to come and go ! They arise, they manifest, they ‘do their bit’ and then they depart. From whence they come, to where they depart - who is to say ? The first of the planes roars overhead. Life intrudes.

In a week I shall go to Bali, to the land of temples and prayer. I shall go to look at a small piece of land high in the mountains that is for sale. If my book does well in America and Europe perhaps I will have enough money to purchase the land which by Western standards is ridiculously cheap. Perhaps I will even have enough to build a small wooden house ! Who knows ? The future is uncertain, eat dessert first, as Kinky Friedman used to say. It is all in the lap of the Gods ! I like the uncertainty. My whole life has been uncertain. Nothing is certain but death and once this is merrily accepted (for I can never bring myself to feel sad about the inevitable) then life can be joyously embraced. I am a sensual soul - I love life with an epicurean passion. It has been such a long strange trip but the dishes I have consumed along the path have nurtured me with such an amazing palette of sensations. What to do ? I have done enough already !

Still, the airplane reminds me. There is a book to be worked on, the animals to be fed, the washing up to be attended to - there is plenty to do ! But for one hour a day there is nothing to do but sit and enjoy the peace and quiet of this garden. To allow the thoughts to come and go and to pay them no particular attention. To be at peace with the world and all that is in it. I wouldn’t change my hour for all the tea in China, for all the money in the world. It seems to silly me, the perfect start to a day. Then, I tell myself, but what do you know ! Only this - this world is a beautiful hotel .

© sam cutler 2010

With “other fish to fry” the poor old blog got side-lined for a while there. No puny excuses no “exit stage lines” no explanations just the simply reality. It refused to appear and I didn’t force it to. But like a comatose body with the apparent characteristics of a corpse one day as I considered its sad and immobile bulk it twitched, it sighed and farted, and then it opened its eyes and smiled. The blog returned to life, and here it is, fresh as a daisy.

There have been many adventures. Every day has begun with the search for happiness (as Stendhal said) and that always relates to a key. The key (not to life) but the bus ! Without the engine she no go, so starting up the lady becomes a vital morning ritual. I put a kettle on the stove to boil water for morning tea, then I go to the driver’s seat and stick the key in the ignition and see if she sparks into life. If the bus starts, I starts - she no go I no go. Simple ! Thus far my wonderful companion (A 1989 toyota coaster) has never let me down, except the one time I left the head-lights on and flattened the batteries. A reliable vehicle is the key to transportation ! The lady fires up, the kettle boils, tea is made and all is well with the world. I pull the awning out, set up my table, sit down and write on my lap-top. This has been my daily pattern of activity.

Here in Australia we have many festivals, and one of my favorites is the Woodford Folk Festival which is held in rolling grasslands about two hours north of Brisbane in the state of Queensland. I arrived with the bus and one of my sons and we set up camp. A lady friend joined us three days later and had been there for two hours. It had been raining steadily for days. My friend went to the toilet and fell over in the mud and broke her ankle. I spent the whole festival looking after her and didn’t see one of the several hundred bands that were on the week’s bill. What appeared to be a bad sprain got slowly worse with bruising and swelling and finally we made the long trek to the hospital. The leg was encased in plaster and the lady had to go to her parent’s house - all of this on New Years Eve ! It was not an auspicious start to the coming year and the celebrations were decidedly muted. I sat sheltering from the rain with my son Bodhi and his friend Tynan, said a desultory happy new year, and retired to bed in the bus. The following day I drove to Sydney.

I am now in Sydney being a full-time nurse until the end of January. As Lennon said, “life is what’s happening whilst you’re busy making plans for something else”. The lady has a month of severely reduced mobility and I have my work cut out carrying and fetching. When the going gets tough the tough get going ! What to do ? One cannot simply abandon one’s friends when they need help - it’s not a good look ! So I am here, trying to be gracious and not resentful, and back to my writing.

I have actually been working on the outline of a novel. I always swore I would never write a novel as my life had been the functional equivalent of being trapped in a novel, but the form has slowly and effectively insinuated itself into my consciousness. A twenty first century tale is beginning to gestate in my head and there’s little I can do about it. It’s been busy being born for quite a while, hence the lack of a blog. I know, I said I wouldn’t explain the blog’s absence but somehow the reason for my dilatory productivity needs to be talked about. I haven’t been idle, I’ve just been on the “blog missing list” and paying attention to my own imagination.

The blog has returned. The writing is going well. My friend is finally taking the arnica I’ve been going on about for the last two weeks. I have a spring in the steps of my neurons ! The old grey matter is firing away. Who knows, sometime before I die I might complete the great novel which lurks within .

I’m working on it ! Happy two thousand and pen to one and all !

Having returned to Australia from a wonderful month in Bali, I have begun that process which occurs after a holiday of assimilating the experience, analyzing the pleasures, and generally thinking about what happened. My month in Bali got me thinking about another island which I know and love, Ibiza; and I was struck by some of the similarities between the two places, between their experiences as island cultures, and in particular between their sometimes unhappy experiences with mass tourism. Having lived in Ibiza and had a magic month in Bali, I began to feel like I was in love with two women for both islands are decidedly feminine-energy places.

My Balinese holiday also got me wondering whether the experiences of Ibiza in dealing with the masses of tourists whose annual inundations virtually swamp their island, may have some relevance and some lessons for the Balinese. There’s no question that the people of the Balearic Islands (namely Majorca, Minorca, Ibiza, and Formentera) have made some serious mistakes when it comes to tourism and its impact, and it would be  so encouraging if the major mistakes were NOT replicated in Bali. Could the Balinese, I wonder, use Ibiza to LEARN how NOT to develop their island ? How NOT to make basic errors when it comes to improving their standards of living ?

The first major ‘error’ that one observes in both Bali and Ibiza is in the way that both islands have dealt with ‘development’. If there IS, or HAS BEEN, a plan in either place then that plan is so obscure as to be virtually invisible. In Bali one is not allowed to build higher than a palm tree - how HIGH is a palm tree ?? No-one has a definitive answer ! In Ibiza for years there were few if any restrictions upon building, and on my last visit it struck me that the whole island had been infected with a rash of pox-like square boxes (they call them ‘villas’) of the ugliest kind. If there WERE building controls and planning schemes they were obviously ineffective and outdated on BOTH islands. In Bali I was told all the time, “you should have seen this village five years ago, none of this was here” and I could never quite work out whether the person was bragging or apologizing ! Unrestricted building is going on apace, and in Bali the town of Kuta looks just as ugly as the town of San Antonio in Ibiza. Both places are a blight upon their local cultures, an insult to the peaceable inhabitant of the islands upon which they are located, and both places are a festering sore of drunken louts parading their tattoos and generally being obnoxious.

Both Kuta and San Antonio have been built to attract ‘low end mass-market  tourism’ and whilst they were initially successful are now suffering from a perception that they are unsafe because of drunken behavior in the streets, and undesirable because they were designed only for  those who have very little disposable income and are looking for the lowest common-denominator holiday experience. If one wishes for examples of how NOT to build holiday destinations then Kuta in Bali and San  Antonio in Ibiza are outstanding examples. Unfortunately one can see the San Antonio-ization of Ibiza and  the Kuta-ization of Bali proceeding apace ! This is nothing less than a tragedy.

Are we to end up with both islands covered in shops selling fake designer goods with well known labels to no-one ? Both islands have hundreds of stores which remain uneconomic or barely viable selling shoddy goods which not even the poorest tourist wishes to buy. How long can such a ‘false economy’ continue to survive ? Both islands already have hundreds of bars and restaurants which are barely scraping a living, and in both islands the presence of noticeably drunken tourists is a common sight on the streets of the major towns. Prostitution and drugs are readily available, with the excesses of western hedonism particularly entrenched in Ibiza and now beginning to appear in Bali. Is this what the Balinese people actually want ?

Apart from the issue of the type of tourist each of the islands wishes to attract, there is the MAJOR concern of the environmental imprint of unrestricted development. One of the easiest ways of measuring the impact of unrestricted development is in the effect it has on the water supply and in particular the water table. On both islands the water table (the depth at which water exists when one drills into the ground) has dropped alarmingly and is continuing to do so. When porous rocks (which hold the water) are deprived of the water as the table drops, those rocks lose their porosity and they eventually silt up and can no longer hold water. The water table when it is reduced and lowers does NOT re-establish itself. Once it is significantly lowered that is IT ! As a direct consequence of the lowering of the water table through unrestricted demand there is less water available for both development and agriculture. Bali needs to look to the experience of Ibiza and do so urgently.

Prior to the death of the dictator General Franco, Ibiza was a poor and largely self-sufficient island. By and large Ibiza could feed itself and indeed what it ate, it grew. Development funds were directed to the other Balearic islands because Ibiza supported the opponents of Franco in the Spanish Civil War, and as a result Ibiza experienced no mass tourism until the mid 1960’s. In a spurt of development funded in large part by German money fleeing a restrictive tax regime in Germany, Ibiza then leapt into action and a rash of low-budget hotels sprang up on the island. A huge casino was built, and San Antonio flourished as a cheap package-holiday destination. The results for the environment have been simply dreadful. The result for the people of the island, similarly so. I lived in a house which I rented which had been owned for hundreds of years by the one family. It was lost at gambling with the family put out into the street. I subsequently rented the place from the man who had won it at cards. Gambling is a MAJOR problem in Ibiza for the people of the island. The casino was built, we are told, for the tourists !

Sewage from the hotels HAS to go somewhere ! Where did it go, and where does it go to this day ? It is conveniently pumped out to sea in pipelines which place the fecal matter some half a kilometer out to sea ! The hotels and guest houses HAD to have water. Where did it come from ? They bored wells and pumped it from the water-table which is now so low that many of the wells which had hitherto been in existence for hundreds of years are now dry. The experience of the small island of Ibiza is there for all to see, available in research by Spanish Greenpeace and various agencies of the European Union and Common Market. Bali would do well to wake up and take heed for it is undoubtedly the case that their are worrying similarities between the two islands experiences. The water table in Bali is dropping, NOW. Bali is importing rice !

When I first went to Ibiza in the sixties it was a relatively unspoiled place. The Ibicencos had a vibrant culture and a method of farming that was ancient and had withstood the test of time. Their fields were lined by wonderful dry-stone walls, they grew olives and almonds and fruit, grapes were in abundance, and their neatly white-washed houses were of a design and a simplicity that harked back over a thousand years to the era of the Phoenicians. At the local fiestas the Ibicencos would appear in their best traditional clothes, proudly wearing the red cap of the Catalan people of which they are a part. All of the families proudly spoke their native tongue even though it had been suppressed by a fascist dictatorship for almost forty years. They played their traditional music which they had secretly kept alive. Most of this, other than the language, is eoither gone or fast disappearing in the space of less than a generation. The Balinese would do well to take note of what has happened !

No young person in Ibiza wishes to be a farmer. Most of the fields lay fallow with the walls collapsing because no-one wants to do the hard manual labor that’s involved in the maintenance of dry-stone walls. Within a matter of years there will be few people left who possess the skills or the knowledge to farm in the traditional manner.  Ibiza long ago ceased to be self-sufficient and all its food needs are met through importing food from the Spanish mainland. There is talk of a water pipe-line from the mainland, and already the power needs of the island (electricity and fuel) have to be imported. No-one but the very elderly wears national dress, where only thirty years  ago it was quite common to see it upon people of all ages. The olive presses on the island which for centuries pressed olive oil no longer work and are now installed in people’s houses as designer objects. Where once people all over the island could make baskets, I doubt one could find anyone under sixty years of age with the skill today. The experiences of Ibiza will, I fear, be replicated (if only in part) in Bali because they are the experiences of a culture that has embraced tourism. What should the Balinese do ?

If I could wave a ‘magic wand’ I would arrange for a delegation from Bali to go to Ibiza to make connections with the Ibicenco tourism and culture people. With Spanish and Catalan government departments which deal with the environment. With universities and places of higher learning which deal with the impact of tourism on society. I would set in motion a continuing ‘dialogue’ between the two cultures that existed for the benefit of the peoples of the two places. In this way, I believe, some of the worst excesses of the Ibiza experience could be spared the people of Bali. AND, some of the BETTER experiences could be shared. For all is not doom and gloom, though the overall picture is pretty depressing. The Catalan people have a rich and vibrant culture that goes back many hundreds of years, and they would love the Balinese culture for its richness and historicity - the cross-cultural benefits of the two islands being in ‘harmonic communication’ would be wonderful.

With my ‘magic wand’ I call upon the cultural and business elites of BOTH islands to respond to this call - you both have so much to benefit by becoming friends and being in meaningful communication. BUT, alas, I am only a writer and a dreamer. A poet who has enjoyed both magical places, a man whose heart has been moved by the soulful generosity of both peoples. Ibiza and Bali, the two most beautiful islands of my dreams. In Ibiza I became a writer, in Bali I hope to live as an old man. I remain deeply in love with both places in a marriage made in heaven. “Om swasti astu”, as my Balinese friends would say when they met the people of Ibiza; who would reply in friendship and good cheer,  “benvingut” !

© sam cutler 2009

Of course, just because one falls asleep in ‘paradise’ there is no automatic guarantee that one will awake in the same place, and so it was that on my first night in Bali I had some rather strange nocturnal experiences. The bed was hard and firm as an athletes muscles and draped in crisp white mosquito netting so that I felt as if I were in the tent of some desert potentate. I lay down and remember feeling ostentatiously luxurious before falling asleep with my head on a pillow softer than my lady’s breasts and without a care in the world.  I was awakened to the sound of a baby being strangled.

The most pitiable cries seemed to be coming from immediately outside my room. I woke instantaneously, charged and attentive, mind clear and focused, and ready to do battle with every monster that the world could summon to test me. It was two minutes past three in the morning and within less than five seconds of my re-entering consciousness I was standing at the door in my bare feet listening to the strange sounds. It was a noise like no noise I had ever heard before, a hideous noise, strangely moving and ineffably sad,a  noise that I couldn’t quite place, yet one which (though distant) seemed somehow familiar. It was the sound of a baby being strangled but that was plainly ridiculous I told myself, unless that is, I had gone to sleep in heaven and woken up in hell.

Armed with nothing more than an absurd sense of purpose I threw open the door to my room and stepped out onto the porch. The rain poured down in those monsoon sheets which one can only find in Asia. There was a soft and gentle rhythm as the rice shivered in appreciation beneath the downpour - in the distance across the fields a  lone light bulb pierced the gloom. I stepped to the edge of the porch and stood just behind a sheet of water which sprayed down from the edge of the roof and peered into the darkness. The baby sounds became intermittent, less insistent now, but I could see nothing and eventually they ceased all together. There was nothing but the steady sound of the rain, and I began to feel foolish standing naked on my porch and went back to the room.

Asleep again, I dreamed of when I was a child. I had been very ill and almost died from a condition known as Pyloric Stenosis. The pyloric valve sits at the lower end of the esophagus and regulates the flow of food from the tube which goes from the mouth to the stomach. If the baby suffers from this condition, the valve will not open, thus food cannot enter the stomach proper. The baby regurgitates its food with projectile force and without an operation will almost certainly not survive. BUT, some with the condition DO survive, and for those that make it through early childhood the ailment returns in their teens when it requires major surgery. I was one of these and was to spend almost a year of my life in hospital when I was seventeen. Anyway, I was asleep now in Bali, but it was a fitful sleep, disturbed and without restorative value. I would wake feeling as if I were choking and turn this way and that as I struggled for breathe, just like I must have done when I was a baby in my mother’s arms beneath the bombs that rained down on London in the Second World War. Finally I could stand it no more, and as the sky lightened I decided to get up and write.

As I stepped onto the floor, the terrible baby cries began again. I was shocked and listened attentively. The noises were coming from outside the room and this time I decided to get dressed before I investigated. Fully clothed and armed with an umbrella I stepped onto the porch and looked out at the fields as the dawn reformed the night sky. The noise was coming from just beyond the porch and I opened the umbrella and stepped out into the rain. A meter away from me in my peripheral vision I noticed something moving and the awful sounds were loud and insistent. There, almost at my feet, was a snake about a meter long doing its level best to swallow a massive frog. The green and red and black snake held the frog in its reticulated jaws, with the frogs eyes bulging manically and the most hideous cries coming from its throat. The snakes eyes were glazed and it would thrash its tail and with each spasm the frog would enter just a few millimeters more into the snake’s mouth. Two nasty fangs held the top of the frog’s head and there was no chance of its escaping. It was a hideous sight and one that made me want to wretch as I stumbled back in horror to the safety of the porch. I slumped into a chair and waited for the ghastly business to be over and finally the snake slithered into the rice paddy with its distended belly and its malevolent eyes and the sounds of death were no more.

The day had begun. The world had merely been going about its business with snakes eating frogs, and my memories of children dying, bombs falling, mothers abandoning their babies, rain falling, and my lover a million miles away. I felt horribly alone. At the end of the garden the Balinese had the house temple and I walked there in the rain. Beneath the benevolent eyes of the Gods I cried and mournfully realized that all was as it ever was. Rain and tears, rain and tears, same same baba, same same.  At night in the fields sometimes even the stones must cry.

©  sam cutler 2009

Since the beginnings of my wandering ways, when I was not yet a man, people have been telling me about Bali. A friend of my mothers went there immediately after the second World War and I remember him describing to us the Gamalan orchestras - I must have been around seven or eight years old. With the arrival of my teens and an insatiable wanderlust the people of my generation split from the British isles and the cold beside the Atlantic and headed East. India, South East Asia, warm and exotic destinations, were the flavor of my teenage years. I have been summoned to Bali by friends whilst I have been in a host of other countries, some near and some far, and mysteriously I never got there ! In Goa they said, come to Bali, and I went to Thailand! In Thailand they said come to Bali and I went to Japan! In Hong Kong they said come to Bali and I went to Maui. In Peru they said come to Bali and I went to Vancouver ! In New York, London, Paris, Barcelona, Ibiza, I have been told and cajoled - come to Bali ! Ridiculous ! So much traipsing around the planet discovering what was never lost, and the most beautiful gem of a place invisible to me ! Now I am finally here I realize what a fool I have been but I console myself with the thought that at least I got here in the end - it just took me fifty years !

So I have ostensibly come to Bali to participate in the Ubud Writers Festival. But I know in my heart of hearts that there are various levels of meaning and intent that have finally dragged my sorry butt to this exquisite place, this home of the Gods. The writers festival is but one of many reasons for my  being in Bali - the Gods (no doubt) have their reasons too ! With this in mind I boarded the plane in Sydney feeling unconcerned and at ease. Let the Gods do as they will, for who are we to deflect them from their higher purposes ? With the improbable surge of the plane into the sky I surrendered quite happily to whatever lay ahead.

The first announcement from the pilot set the tone for what was to come. There were (apparently) strong head winds so instead of the flight taking five hours it would now take seven ! The man beside me became agitated and was furiously calculating fuel consumptions and all kinds of technical date which was beyond me, whilst I didn’t give a damn. If they had told me the flight would have taken a week I doubt that I would have cared - I had left Sydney ten days before the writers festival began to cover just such an eventuality. Hell, I could have had a Robinson Crusoe experience before the Festival and still made it in time ! We landed in one piece at Denpasar and furious-to-be-late stormed from the plane. As an old ‘Asia hand’ I knew getting into Indonesia might take more time than a Westerner might think he’s got, so I simply relaxed and got ready to wait. Three and a half hours later a very bored immigration office ungraciously gave me a months visa having relieved me of twenty five dollars for the privilege. It all seemed cool to me - I mean, who comes to Asia for a New York City “efficiency experience” ? Not me ! You wanna live on “Tulsa Time” go to Tulsa !

I was greeted by a man with my name on a board and THE most heavenly smile - remember he had been waiting for over five hours ! If I had been arriving in London my driver might well have wanted to lynch me ! But no, a heavenly smile and all round relief that I had made it and that the wait was not in vain. We drove into the night and the smells and sights of Asia welcomed themselves into my nostrils and insinuated their glorious chaos into my soul. On my first few minutes in Bali I felt like I was at home. No! I KNEW that I was at home, and all the words of advice given to me down the years telescoped into a glorious sense of gratitude that finally I had made it and like a previously forlorn lover I could now swoon in my beloved’s arms without a care in the world. How I loved the hundreds of motorcycles ! How wonderful that people drove with such abandon. How cool were all the stalls lining the streets, the teeming masses of Asia lounging about quite happily without ostensible purpose. Loitering without intent ! I wanted to get out of the car and just squat next to the first group of people I saw and hang out doing sweet fanny adams for a week.

The drive to Ubud took an hour or so measured in Western minutes - for me it took an eternity. A different man arrived in Ubud to the one that had previously left Denpasar, All the concerns of western life dropped from me as we progressed across the island at a leisurely pace to finally arrive at a temple. Or was it a hotel ?  It was virtually impossible to tell the difference here ! Everywhere temples, everywhere boarding houses, and the differences  so subtle to the western eye. I looked down the dark street -  shop, temple, hotel, temple,temple, shop,boarding house,temple. Ubud had temples embedded in the very fabric of the place as naturally integral to the weft and the weave of life as stitches are to a piece of clothing. And little offerings placed strategically I noticed - beside the gate, above a door lintel, in the lap of a seated Buddha, even on the seat of a motor-cycle. Everywhere propitious gifts for the Gods. And smiles from everybody given graciously and without that obsequious insincerity that can be the traveler’s bane. Here, one felt, people smiled for the gods and were genuinely happy. Within minutes of my arrival in Ubud I fell into a gloriously hard bed with an Hibiscus flower on the each of the pillows mumbling to myself ‘home is temple, home is temple’ and into what can only be described as a truly righteous sleep. Unbeknownst to me, the dawn was to bring some wonderful surprises.

to be continued ….
© sam cutler 2009

The blog on the sad death of Brian Jones sure made some creatures come out of the woodwork ! As my old grannie used to say “set a sprat to catch a mackerel”. As a result of the blog I have been contacted by people from all over the world with all kinds of bizarre and strange theories about Brian’s death. Theories, theories, some barely believable, some monstrous - the death of Brian Jones continues to create serious ripples amongst the people who knew him and loved him. It has also, it seems, created some ‘disturbance’ amongst the people who hated him ! There were a lot of people, it seems, who hated Brian back then, and who still hate him to this day !

I have received threats. I have received E Mails which are (on the face of it) evidence of collusion in  the cover-up of a murder. I have received information about how the murder was done by a person who claims to have witnessed it. I have even received evidence from a journalist and writer who was told how the murder was committed by the man whom I named as the prime suspect. All in all it has been an unpleasant experience swimming in the murky waters of Brian’s end, but things have progressed. There is now a “coalition of the willing” made up of some of THE most serious journalists on the planet who are helping the inquiry - none of these men are easily intimidated and they have excellent connections with the police.  There are journalists looking into this from Bangkok, Los Angeles, London, Sydney, and Japan - three of the largest news agencies in the world are monitoring the investigations. The police in Australia, Britain and America have been informed of various matters. The next few months will prove to be interesting. I’ll keep you posted !

It is now forty years since Brian Jones’ demise, where (dependent upon one’s sources) he either drowned or was murdered. No-one that was around the Stones at the time and none of the Stones’ musicians, have ever offered a public opinion as to what happened to Brian. His death has been “shrouded in mystery” and characterised by police incompetence, an absurd and inadequate coronial enquiry, and very little sympathy from anyone other than his band mates and his immediate family. No-one, it seems, wishes to go “on the record” concerning Brian, and now (apparently) the police have new evidence regarding Brian’s death. There is a possibility that the original police investigation will be re-opened. The original police enquiry was a farrago of incompetence that makes the keystone cops looks  positively professorial. It’s time for people to say what they think.

Brian Jones was murdered. Of this there is little doubt. He was not murdered by the man who was in charge of the building work at Brian’s farm, a gentleman by the name of Thorogood who is popularly credited by conspiracy theorists with doing the deed.  He was almost certainly murdered by the very man whose role it was to protect him, Tom Keylock. The man who less than forty eight hours after the murder, emptied the house of its valuable contents, and burnt substantial amounts of papers and personal items of Brian Jones on a bonfire in the front garden.

I was in the Rolling Stones office when news of Keylock’s removal of Brian’s possessions came through, and can clearly remember the shock on people’s faces upon hearing this news so soon after the terrible news of what had happened to Brian. The question on everyone’s mind was, why on earth had Keylock done this? How had the police, who were surely guarding a crime scene, allowed someone to remove all of the potential evidence ? Why had Keylock been burning Brian’s papers ? Were the papers that were burnt incriminating evidence of some kind ? If not, then why burn them ? What had been going on between Keylock and Brian on a financial level ? No-one in the office had any idea or was privy to Brian’s finances. The only person from the Rolling Stones organisation that had an on-going relationship with Brian was Alan Klein, his manager. Klein was in the United Kingdom when Brian died and immediately took steps to investigate his death.

Keylock, a former member of the parachute regiment had been a ‘minder’ for the Rolling Stones for several years until he was dismissed by Keith Richards. Keylock had been “double dipping” so that when Keith ordered furniture (for example) Keylock would order some too and have the bill for his order added to that of Keith’s. Keith found out and Keylock was given the old “heave ho” and summarily dismissed. At this juncture, in late 1968 Keylock went to look after Brian Jones.

On the night that Brian died Keylock always maintained that he was NOT at the farm. This was not true.  He was at the farm. Not only was he at the farm, he was also in the swimming pool. Two witnesses testified to this to private investigators sent by Alan Klein. Alan Klein investigated the murder of Brian Jones, had private detectives go to a nordic country and to France to interview two female witnesses, and it was the conclusion of the investigators that Keylock was directly responsible for Brian’s death.　

On the night that Brian died there were several men in the pool with him. One was Frank Thorogood, the friend of Tom Keylock, whom Keylock had hired to do building work at Brian’s house. Along with Thorogood there were two building workers who were employed by Thorogood. All three men were staying at the farm at Brian’s expense. Then there was Keylock. A witness who arrived at Brian’s farm whilst the events were in progress,describes a man  holding down Brian’s head under the water in the investigator’s report. The witness (not one of the two women at the farm) was approached by a man (not Keylock) who threatened him and he  and his girlfriend who were personal friends of Brian’s left the scene as  quickly as possible. They immediately fled overseas and were never sought out by  the British police.

Neither of the female witnesses to the events which lead to Brian’s death were prepared to come to the United Kingdom and testify. Both witnesses (female) stated that they had been threatened and felt that their lives were in danger. Both witnesses testified that Keylock had been present in the swimming pool on the night and it was only many years after the event that Keylock finally admitted to journalists that he had indeed been present at the scene, tho he denied being in the pool or anywhere near the pool. Two men who had worked on the farm, and who were also present at the pool that evening, were never located or interviewed by the police.

Conveniently (for Keylock) and several years after Brian’s death, Frank Thorogood became so ill that he had to be hospitalised, he was a very sick man.  Thorogood had been a witness to Brian’s murder and had been in a business relationship with Keylock. Keylock had arranged for Thorogood and two other men to do the building work at Brian’s farm. With Thorogood dying in hospital Keylock visited him, and miraculously a ‘death bed confession’ was forthcoming, where (according to keylock - the only witness) Thorogood admitted to “murdering Brian”. This ‘confession’ had the convenient effect of  diverting attention away from Keylock (who may well have felt under pressure from Klein’s earlier enquiries) and placing it squarely upon Thorogood.

And there the matter rests. It is believed that the police in the United Kingdom now have copies of the Klein report. Klein was the manager of both the Rolling Stones and the Beatles and determined to establish the cause of Brian’s death - unlike the police who basically didn’t give a damn. One can only assume that the Beatles and the Stones were privy to the conclusions of the Klein report, though no-one has ever mentioned the existence of such a report. It is unknown whether the Klein report ever was given to the British police, but it is known that the police made no attempt to contact any of the witnesses named in the report.

Alan Klein was the manager of the Beatles and The Rolling Stones. A man of an extremely unpleasant disposition if he  were crossed or became annoyed. There is no way on this earth that a major client of Alan Klein’s could have died in mysterious circumstances without Alan being involved in finding out what happened. I have had dealings with Alan Klein and I can assure people that he was not a man to be trifled with. He investigated Brian’s murder with all the resources he had available to him and  Klein thought that Brian had been murdered. He commissioned a report which investigated the death and arrived at conclusions to that that effect. Tom Keylock was the prime (and only) suspect named in that report. Keylock was never formally interviewed under caution by the British police. Keylock died on July 2nd 2009 at the age of eighty two, EXACTLY forty years to the day after Brian died.


© sam cutler 2009

There have been press reports that the police have received some “new evidence” relating to the death of the legendary Rolling Stones guitarist Brian Jones. I was working with the Stones when Brian died and would like to have a short say about the whole horrible business of his death.

First though, about the police investigation. The original police investigation was laughable, a complete farce. IF there is to be a further investigation, then I have little enthusiasm for the idea that it might be thorough or coherent or subscribe to “police best practice”. Rather conveniently the original botched investigation was so long ago that most of the participants are now  dead. “Fresh” evidence has (apparently) been handed to the police - the police are “considering” this evidence before they decide whether to re-open the case. The case was barely “opened” in the first place, rather it was somewhat emphatically closed!

There are several things that should be remembered by those who may well be interested in the tragedy of Brian’s death and who (perhaps) weren’t even born when all of this happened some forty years ago. England then was a very different England to the England we see today. The Rolling Stones (we’re talking 1969 here) were the “bad boys” of the English rock scene and positively persecuted by the police at every available juncture. It is well known that various coppers were “on the take” and would threaten the Stones with being busted if they didn’t pay bribes. Jagger and Richards had been busted on a set-up at Keith’s country home at Redlands almost certainly connived at by the press, Brian had been busted numerous times and had already narrowly escaped a prison sentence. Mick and Keith had actually spent a  night in prison awaiting sentencing after the Redlands bust. It was not much fun being a Rolling Stones at the end of the sixties.

It was common knowledge amongst rock fans of the era that the police (without a doubt) hated the Rolling Stones and all they represented. They hated the youth culture of the time, hated the music, and hated long-haired rock stars who were earning far too much money. The average ‘copper’ was on about six pounds a week in 1969 - the Stones could command huge fees - it was no wonder the police were resentful and jealous of the rock and rollers and determined to bring them down a notch or two -  quite simply they were out to “get” the Rolling Stones. In the midst of this poisonous and paranoid atmosphere Brian died at his house. What did the police do ? As little as possible!

Again, let us remind ourselves, this was 1969. A fey and degenerate rock star, the subject of numerous drug busts and of a hedonistic life-style which “outraged the nation”, had been found dead in his swimming pool. Were the police concerned about this? Hell no ! Were the general public, at least any of the general public over the age of 25 ? Hell no ! No-one gave a toss, in fact it’s fair to say that the general mood was that the “little shit had got what he deserved”. “Served him right for living like that and behaving like a mad druggie” would be a fair summation of the attitude of most of middle-class (and working class) Britain, and it was certainly the attitude of the ‘investigating’ police.

The ‘investigation’ was a ludicrous farce. An “asthma inhaler” had (conveniently) been found beside the pool. Ipso facto the man had drowned whilst swimming from an asthma attack. He was a well known druggie, the police snidely suggested, so even if wasn’t an asthma attack, then he drowned from a combination of drugs and alcohol. There are some pertinent questions that STILL need to be asked, but because of the passage of time they will NEVER be satisfactorily answered. Who (exactly) was there when Brian died? Where was the man who was Brian’s ‘minder’ ? Was he, or was he not, at the scene ? In addition to Frank Thorogood, a man who was doing building work for Brian, what other men were present ? Why did several women who were present never make themselves available to the coroner who ‘investigated’ Brian’s death ? Why did several of these women flee the country immediately following Brian’s demise, never to return ? Why was there no autopsy on the body ? The list of questions is a long one !

Immediately following the death of Brian, his farm was undoubtedly a ‘crime scene’. Did the police secure the premises ? Did they hell ! Two days after Brian’s death, a man who had previously worked in a security capacity for the Rolling Stones (and who had been fired for ‘financial malfeasance’) drove to the farm where Brian had died and loaded a truck with every last piece of Brian’s belongings. He was also seen by witnesses burning quantities of papers on a fire in the garden. Was the man questioned or stopped by the police whilst he did this ? Hell no ! I can remember (at the time) that people in the Stones organisation were very shocked at this turn of events so soon after Brian’s demise. One might fairly ask why the Rolling Stones didn’t kick up a fuss about the theft of Brian’s property, but again one has to remember the times. The Rolling Stones were tired and exhausted by the constant  police harassment they were subjected to, and (I think) had very little (if any) faith in the police. In fact, in a very real sense, they feared the police and were simply not up to taking them on. To this day, none of the property stolen from Brian’s home, which included valuable and rare guitars and instruments and expensive antique furniture, has ever been recovered. None of it has ever surfaced at sales. It has simply ‘vanished’ into thin air! One might reasonable ask - where did it go ? Who took it ? Who disposed of it ? Have the police ever sought to investigate such questions ? Hell no !

So the news is that the police have some ‘new’ evidence that they are looking at. From whom ? What could it possibly be that was so fundamental as to cause a re-opening of a case long since dead and buried like Brian ? Frank Thorogood made a ‘death bed confession’ saying that he had murdered Brian. To whom did he make this confession ? A room full of people ? Hell no ! To one man - now conveniently dead ! A man, I might add, who could quite reasonably have been considered a ‘person of interest’ in the police investigation, had there been a proper investigation. But there wasn’t one. Hell no ! And there wont be one now.

Brian Jones was a man of great musical talent - a fantastic guitar player and indeed a multi instrumentalist. He was also an arsehole and a total nightmare to be around. A guy who liked to beat up women and have his bodyguards beat up people who offended him in nightclubs. In short, he was a bit of a shit. BUT, that doesn’t mean to say that he deserved to be murdered for his shortcomings. In fact, he didn’t deserve to have an untimely and brutal death, just like no man deserves such an end. Will the police finally bring some justice to this case, some closure. I don’t just want to say I doubt it, I want to say HELL NO !

In an interesting subsequent development to the whole matters of Brian’s death, the Rolling Stones played a ‘memorial concert’ for Brian in London’s Hyde Park.
Such was the sympathy for the Stones and Brian and all that they had gone through at the hands of the press and the police, that half a million fans showed up to support the Stones in their hour of need. There were no police present. Thereafter the Rolling Stones were never again to be actively persecuted by the British police who realised that the band actually had massive popular support. The band went from strength to strength, and the whole business of their desirability (or otherwise) was finally settled by “her Majesty” when Michael Phillip Jagger became “Sir Mick”. As many were keen to observe, “they were taking the Mick”. Keith thought Mick should never have accepted anything less than being made a Lord ! And has any of this brought justice to Brian Jones, or his various children who have survived him, Hell no ! There doesn’t seem there’s much more one can say about the whole sorry mess, other than to answer the question as to whether one has any faith in the british police to do their job (in this instance) properly ? I am forced to reply with a resounding Hell No ! Why ? Well have a look at all the pop stars who have died prematurely. Have any of their deaths ever been properly investigated ? Hell no ! Will Michael Jackson’s death-investigation be any different  ? I’ll hold my fire on that one and simply say, let’s see !

© sam cutler 2009
Photos © Canberra Times 2009